The fashion at Pope Francis’s funeral

It may seem like a funny thing to say, but Pope Francis’s funeral last week got me thinking about fashion. Following the televising of the funeral and publication of photos of the various dignitaries in attendance, social media was alight with comments about who was wearing what, or rather criticisms about how inappropriately some (notably, US President Trump and Ukraine President Zelenskyy) were dressed.

On the one hand, President Trump was wearing a blue – rather than traditional black – suit, while Zelenskyy was wearing black – but not a suit. Critics of each followed fairly predictable lines, with each one’s supporters defending their man’s choice of attire – or excusing it by pointing to the other and using it as a basis on which to demolish their opponent’s criticism. Former President Biden, who was also in attendance, donned a blue suit too, as did Prince William and our own Taoiseach, Micheal Martin, although criticism of them was decidedly more muted. Both US wives, the First Lady, Melania Trump, and former First Lady, Jill Biden, were – in fairness – most suitably and beautifully attired for a Papal funeral, wearing black skirt suits and black mantillas.

Etiquette

Any etiquette guide will warn that at a funeral it is not appropriate to seek the limelight for oneself and that funeral attire should reflect that intention, being conservative, sombre and modest. One should also pay attention to the wishes of the family – or in this case the Church – as regards dress. It should be – above all – a sign of respect for the dead and those who mourn rather than an opportunity to make a fashion statement about oneself. Our personal presentation, in other words, becomes a symbol of love for the other. Any keen fashion magazine reader will tell you about the importance and symbolism of one’s fashion choices. Uniforms in this context (whether a dress code of a black suit and tie, or appropriate clerical garb) are – or should be – about not drawing attention to oneself, but rather taking one’s part and place in something bigger.

He even changed tradition as regards his burial place and manner, opting to be buried in Santa Maria Maggiore rather than St Peter’s”

That being said, perhaps Pope Francis himself would have some sympathy for those who bent the dress code rules. After all, he was very much his own man when it came to fashion, dispensing with the traditional papal garments for a simpler style. He did away with the papal red shoes, replaced the gold pectoral cross with an iron one and a solid gold piscatory (or fisherman’s) ring with a gold-plated silver one. His crozier was plain, his throne a simple wooden chair, not the gilded one used by previous popes. He even changed tradition as regards his burial place and manner, opting to be buried in Santa Maria Maggiore rather than St Peter’s, and in a single wooden coffin lined with zinc, rather than the usual three nesting coffins of cypress, lead, and oak.

Rules

However, rules – even fashion rules – are there for a reason. This is what struck me as I looked at those seated in the front sections of the funeral: fashion provided an important visual cue for the role of the clergy and others present. Red chasubles marked out the cardinals and bishops, wearing white mitres on their heads with zuchettos underneath – red for the cardinals and violet for the bishops. Priests and other clergy wore choir dress: a white surplice and red stole over a black soutane. The Swiss Guard (whose duty it is to guard the College of Cardinals during the Sede Vacante period between popes) were present as always: the halberdiers on duty wore their ceremonial uniform of red, blue, and yellow stripes, a silver helmet with a red plume, white collar and gloves, all the while brandishing their halberds.

Instead of picking out personalities, the image (despite all the divisions and disagreements within the Church) was one of a collegiate priestly brotherhood”

Critics of the Church might have tut-tutted at the pomp and ceremony, the apparently lavish dress of the clergy, but I had a different impression. Gazing out over a sea of red silk, I was reminded of the universality of the Church, of the size and breadth of her mission on Earth, of the priests, bishops and cardinals being part of something bigger than themselves in the service of God’s people. Instead of picking out personalities, the image (despite all the divisions and disagreements within the Church) was one of a collegiate priestly brotherhood. In this individualistic era, there remains something to be said for uniforms: clothing in which individual preference and the desire to be noticed are subordinated to something more important. Apart from it being an impressive spectacle in itself, it was also a reminder to us here in Ireland – with merging parishes and fewer available Masses – that the priesthood is not dead, but rather is thriving in many parts of the world.

Commissioning

When judging the Church’s commissioning of art or beautiful architecture or even clerical garb, we would do well to remember Christ’s admonition of Judas who questioned Mary’s anointing of Him in Bethany with a pound of costly nard from an alabaster jar. He reminded those present that the poor would always be with them, and that they – and we – can always do good for them, but that it was right that Mary spared no expense in anointing His body. There is a time and a place for everything, and anything that gives glory to God is never wasted. We should also spare a thought for the artists and craftsmen who earn a living from their trade to support themselves and their families, and bring beauty – a divine attribute – to the world.

Pope Francis, though taking a more streamlined approach, always wore the white uniform that visually identified his papal authority”

Pope Francis’s successor may have a different style – even in fashion terms – however, as leader of the Church, he should be marked out as different from the other bishops of the world. Pope Francis, though taking a more streamlined approach, always wore the white uniform that visually identified his papal authority. Should his successor adopt a more traditional or lavish approach in his dress, let us give him the benefit of the doubt: perhaps he is giving an opportunity to the artists and craftsmen to express their talent in service of the Church; perhaps he wants to have the beauty and glory of the most holy liturgies reflected in the beauty of his garb; perhaps he just wants to wear a uniform and subordinate his personal wishes to his office. Whatever his decision may be, we all should pray for him.